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16 Facts Connecting Tub Drain To Waste Pipe | Bathtub Drain Connection

  • Perhaps the only requirements that specifically apply to bathtubs concern the fact that every one must have both a drainage opening and an overflow opening that drain into the P-trap and that the trap must be constructed with 1 1/2-inch pipe. Some jurisdictions still allow drum traps, which are canisters with lids that you can remove for cleaning, but plumbers seldom use these anymore. In lieu of the removable lid, it’s a good idea to install a trap with a cleanout plug, and this may be a requirement in your jurisdiction. - Source: Internet
  • Assembly usually involves cutting the pipes to length and gluing them together (since they are usually plastic), gluing on the fittings for the stopper and overflow drain and connecting these fittings to the tub. If the drain has a trip lever, you usually install the lever mechanism and the stopper rocker arm if applicable while you’re installing the tub faucet trim. Some drain assemblies come in sections that you connect with compression nuts similar to the fittings on P-traps, and no gluing is necessary. - Source: Internet
  • Geberit Bath Waste and Overflows (BWOs) are equipped with a flexible bellows seal at the overflow. This means simple, safe, and hassle-free installation in almost any construction situation. All-round seals on both sides of the drain and the overflow protect bathtubs of any material from damage caused by corrosion. - Source: Internet
  • The final assembly forms an L-shape, and part of it extends under the bathtub and would break if the tub rested on it, but you can avoid this in one of two ways. You can either assemble the drain before placing the tub, or if the tub is already in place and is too heavy to move because it’s made of cast iron, you can cut a hole in the subfloor so you can reach the tub’s drain opening from underneath. You can use the second option to give you more space to install the P-trap. - Source: Internet
  • The drainage assembly includes two flanged plastic elbows, one for the drain opening in the bottom of the tub and one for the overflow hole, and the elbow openings have to align accurately with their respective drain openings. Your measurements have to be accurate to within 1/8 inch to make this happen, which is one of the main risks involved with installing the drainage assembly before you place the bathtub. Drainage assemblies that come with compression nuts similar to those on a P-trap are adjustable and offer much less risk of making a measurement mistake, so it’s more common to assemble these in place before setting the tub. - Source: Internet
  • The stopper housing has threads that screw into the drain elbow to hold it to the tub, and before installing it, it’s important to secure the provided gasket to the flattened edge of the elbow with silicone adhesive. It’s also important to apply a sealant to the underside of the stopper flange before screwing it on to prevent water from seeping underneath it. You can use silicone adhesive, but since it degrades more quickly in standing water than plumbers’ putty, putty is probably the better choice. - Source: Internet
  • You can find tub stoppers for purchase at numerous retailers, including Amazon, Walmart, The Home Depot, and Wayfair. In addition, you can install a pop-up stopper controlled by a trip lever or a rotating handle attached to the overflow cover. Both of these require a linkage mechanism that you install after completing the rough-in and when the bathtub is ready to use. If you plan to use one of these, you’ll probably need to install a special drain assembly that it will fit. - Source: Internet
  • The bathtub water supply pipes are 1/2 inch in diameter, and they are usually copper, but plumbers are increasingly choosing PEX because it’s easier to install and won’t burst as easily when exposed to cold temperatures. These branch pipes should tie into a 3/4-inch main to ensure adequate water pressure at the tub spout and shower head. One main comes from the cold water supply, and the other comes from the water heater. - Source: Internet
  • This means you can run the bathtub drain line behind the sink and allow the sink drain to vent it, but you’ll have to upgrade the drain and vent for the sink to one pipe size larger in diameter to handle the simultaneous flow of water and air. For example, if you would normally use 1 1/2-inch pipe for the sink drain and vent, you should instead use 2-inch pipe. Wet venting requirements vary, so check with your local building department or consign that part of the rough-in to the plumber who normally handles your plumbing repairs. - Source: Internet
  • From the faucet valve, a 1/2-inch pipe extends downward to a threaded elbow, which is also anchored, and you screw in a nipple that extends through the side of the bathtub for the tub spout. If you’re installing a shower head, a second pipe extends upward from the valve and terminates in a second threaded elbow into which you screw the shower arm. Trim kits for bathroom faucets include handles, a tub spout (which may have a diverter for the shower) and sometimes even a shower head. In it, you’ll find decorative stainless steel escutcheons for hiding the holes through which the pipes and the faucet valve stem protrude. - Source: Internet
  • Some plumbers refer to the drain assembly as the “guts” of the bathtub, which could be a reference to the fact that once the tub is installed, the assembly is hidden behind the wall. It’s more often a reference to the mechanism that works a trip-lever stopper. The mechanism connects to the lever and extends down the overflow pipe to operate a spring-loaded rocker arm or raise and lower a weight that wedges itself into the drain opening to stop the water and keep the bathtub full. - Source: Internet
  • Whether you’re adding a bathtub to a new bathroom or an existing one, you’ll need to connect the bathtub plumbing to the rest of the drainage system, and you’ll need to install a water supply. Because of the way bathtubs are built, you can’t simply run the bathtub drain line vertically down from the drain opening. Instead, you have to put together a drain assembly that connects the drain and overflow openings and ties into the bathtub drainage system. - Source: Internet
  • Once you’ve assembled and installed the guts of the bathtub, the rest of the bathtub plumbing rough-in is straightforward. The P-trap usually fits snugly in the space between the floor joists, and you connect the drain to the rest of the bathroom plumbing and the vent to the vent network. Install PEX, CPVC or copper water lines (galvanized pipes aren’t recommended), hook them up to the bathtub faucet and your new bathtub is ready to trim out. - Source: Internet
  • Richard Trethewey visits a 1950s ranch house to help a homeowner replace his tub drain. The drain is rusted, and the stop can’t be used to fill the tub. The homeowners have done some repairs and upgrades themselves but were nervous to touch the tub drain because they don’t want to mess with water. Richard assures that replacing a drain is a straightforward project, as long as you have reasonable access underneath the drain and everything is correctly sealed. - Source: Internet
  • In jurisdictions in which it is permissible to wet vent the toilet through a sink drain, which is most of them, it’s also legal to tie the bathtub drain line to the toilet waste line and allow the sink drain to vent both fixtures. The drain and vent pipe sizes of this configuration depend on a quantity called drain fixture units (DFUs). A traditional bathroom fixture group consisting of a 1.6 gpf toilet, sink and bathtub with shower represents six DFUs, which requires a minimum drain size of 2 1/2 inches, according to the IPC. - Source: Internet
  • Luckily, the drain is easily accessible from the basement, so the homeowner and Richard get to work. Richard lays out a mockup version of what he’ll be installing and demonstrates what each piece will do. Together they remove the old drain and install the new one. - Source: Internet
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